Anne Chen
Fashion has served as a medium for political expression and protest all throughout history. Most notably, fashion is a visual advocate for various significant causes to people of all ages and backgrounds. Individuals wholly embrace the meaning of what is worth fighting for by representing it through clothing, a phenomenon known as fashion activism.
Although seemingly unrelated, politics and fashion have historically shared a mutually influential power regarding political ideas, social dynamics, and global exchange. The 20th century saw suffragettes draped in purple, white, and green to support women’s voting rights. Many African American activists in the Civil Rights Movement wore their “Sunday best,” a style characterized by classy hemlines, button-ups, and suits, that challenged Black Americans’ place in the social hierarchy. Other forms of fashion activism have a more direct approach to their political messaging, as demonstrated by Representative Alexandra Ocasio-Cortez’s white gown scrawled with “Tax the Rich” in red letters at the 2021 Met Gala. Regardless of the message or the clothing itself, fashion amplifies the significance of a cause, whether it is human rights, gender identity, or environmentalism.
As leading catalysts for change in the industry, designers such as Vivienne Westwood dedicated their work to meaningful causes. Beyond her punk spirit and eccentric designs during her prime years of the 1970s and 80s, Westwood spent her career speaking up about the adverse effects of climate change and overconsumption. As a supporter of various grassroots campaigns and NGOs, Westwood inaugurated the Climate Revolution at the London Paralympics closing ceremony and continues to rally charities, NGOs, and individuals to join forces and take action against disengaged political leaders and big businesses. One exhibition of her designs in favor of this movement includes portraits of individuals in environmentally friendly, unbleached cotton t-shirts imprinted with Westwood’s “Save the Arctic” logo. In an effort to raise awareness about the harmful impacts of drilling and industrial fishing in the Arctic, all profits from this collection went to Greenpeace, a global environmental organization, to further Westwood’s goal of raising awareness and instigating change. Additionally, Westwood champions sustainability within the fashion industry itself by promoting the use of renewable energy suppliers and imposing renewable energy tariffs on large manufacturing companies. Westwood’s involvement with the Human Society International also advocates for fur-free fashion in Britain.
Prominent figures in the fashion industry such as Westwood have paved the way for more intentional designs and freedom of expression through clothing. Her passing in December of 2022 sent a wave of sorrow through the fashion industry, but her legacy inspires others to continue her activism. Fashion activism prevails today, as seen through innovative designers and their approaches that are often inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s work. For example, emerging designer Jeanne Friot centers her work around a genderless label that is politically engaged, and Dior’s new luxury bag represents women’s rights activist with writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie as its muse.
However, fashion activism isn’t just restricted to high-end established brands. This unique kind of activism is a form of artistic expression that allows individuals to voice contemporary issues and challenge norms to promote change.
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