Suiting All Genders

By: Anyssa Dang, Madeline Dornman, Grace Robinson Dorn, and Jillian Smith

When you usually think of suits, you think of businessmen in crisp black and navy suits; however, that has changed as more and more women have ventured into men's fashion and clothing. When men wear a suit, they show the people that see them that they are respectful and have worth. The suit also can give the presence of power, which can be helpful if a woman is trying to establish herself in a powerful position. Since women are struggling to gain positions of power, they want nothing to help people, not want to trust them or gain power over them. Clothing is a huge part of the way people view others, and women want to be seen as respected, and they want that to be shown on the outside as well.

The history of women's suits may not date as far back as the 1600s as men's suits do, but they continue to break barriers in history. Beginning in 1870, actress Sarah Bernhardt started a trend of wearing "boy's clothes" in public, which sparked controversy over challenging gender roles in modern women. In the Progressive Era, where women were bolder and more active in civil disobedience, they iconically wore "The Suffragette Suit" while protesting in rallies and marches for women's suffrage. Coco Chanel was possibly the most well-known designer of women's suits, gaining popularity in World War I by tailoring the first truly female suit that retained glamour and femininity. During the jazz age, women continued their journey for liberation and began to participate in leisure activities, including tennis, equestrian riding, and cycling.

When women began to wear pants for the first time to participate in these activities, they were considered to be cross-dressing and were criminalized. In 1933, Eleanor Roosevelt was the first First Lady to wear trousers at an official function. Although her choice of clothing was accidental, her bold look brought this new style to the media's attention. More and more movies began to feature women wearing tuxedos, white double-breasted suits, and trousers, solidifying the trend as a part of everyday women's wardrobes.

After World War II, there was a mass influx of women into the wartime workforce. As a result, women no longer wanted to wear dainty dresses synonymous to a role within the home as a housewife at the office. Wearing soft dresses had always been the societal expectation, but it actually hindered women from doing intensive labor, which only served as a justification of a woman's subordinate. Thus, the desire was born into the commonplace marketplace for strong shoulder pads and neatly pressed lines specifically made for women. In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent released the "Le Smoking" tuxedo, which was so ahead of its time that some hotels and restaurants would not permit women inside while wearing it. Thus, the 1980s became known as the time of the "power suit." Designers like Georgio Armani designed androgynous shoulder pads and oversized jacket silhouettes, creating the stereotypical women in business attire.

Ever since this era, we have seen a rise in women in business, politics, and athletics. It is hard to imagine that as little as 25 years ago, a woman would have been banned from the Congress floor for wearing pants. The incoming normalcy of a woman wearing a suit offered much more freedom and variety of what was seen as acceptable for how a woman to dress and be beautiful. Suits for women not only represent independence from a man's income but also independence of personal expression through clothing.

Some powerful and confident women that wear stylish suits are Blake Lively and Zendaya. Most commonly known for her roles in Gossip Girl, Shallows, and A Simple Favor, Blake Lively has a great sense of personal style that includes many suits! She has a wide range of styles that look effortless, from sleeky, professional business style suits to fun, playful neon monochrome suits. In her latest movie role in A Simple Favor, her character wore suits as she embodied a strong and confident woman. Lively breaks the gender roles to rock her power suits around New York, inspiring many to join the trend.

Popular young actress, Zendaya also incorporates "masculine" suits in her style. Zendaya has been in the public eye since she was a young girl, as Rocky on Shake It Up! As she has grown up, her personal style has evolved, challenging gender norms in the fashion industry. On more than one occasion, she has integrated suits into her red-carpet attire, becoming a role model for women wearing what they want, when they want. In her most recent project, HBO's Euphoria, her character hides behind baggy, masculine pieces that contrast Zendaya's naturally feminine frame. While she does "glam-up" more in her personal life, we see that she continues to use male-centric trends to her advantage.

Rihanna, a singer well known for her outspoken views on female rights, is also well known for her unconventional approach to fashion. After participating in a New York City Women's March, Rihanna was spotted flaunting a "We Should All Be Feminists" shirt designed by Dior. Over this statement top, she paired a black blazer from a suit and grey sweatpants. She constantly challenged modern ideas of femininity and beauty, whether it be through her style choices or public pleas for equality.

Through the inspiration from these powerful and confident women, we too can embrace the powerful silhouette and message a suit can offer to women. Suits in women's fashion not only are becoming more popular, but as time has gone on, it has been a symbol of masculinity to become a symbol of empowerment now. Therefore, we encourage you to try to incouperate suits into your wardrobe to break the gender stereotypes and begin to embrace your confidence through the empowering message a suit can bring.